A Detailed Guide to the Road to Hana
Searching for a detailed guide to the Road to Hana? Look no further than this blog post for the answers to your questions. We’ll discuss the can’t-miss stops, the best app for the Road to Hana, what time to start your journey, and whether or not it is worth doing!
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Background on the Road to Hana
One of Maui’s premier tourist attractions is none other than the Road to Hana, a 64-mile-long drive stretching from Kahului through the town of Hana to the outskirts of Haleakalā National Park. This day-long excursion consists of ribboning roads through the island’s secluded backcountry, allowing drivers and their passengers to marvel at waterfalls, often behind a line of vehicles taking the sights in for themselves.
The Road to Hana has sparked controversy in recent years, as this touristy activity has oversaturated the once-remote roads that these locals must take daily for their jobs or grocery runs. When the usual rush hour traffic turns into a 12-hour occurrence brought on by out-of-towners slowly creeping around corners or pausing in the middle of the road to take photos, it is understandable that this would frustrate the locals. Having grown up in the Amish headquarters of Pennsylvania, I’ve too felt resentment towards visitors who held up a line of cars simply because they were too infatuated with a horse and buggy on the road to pass it. While this in no way equates to the amount of traffic the Hana locals deal with, it made me sympathize with their complaints and highlighted the importance of responsible tourism. Despite these valid grievances, travelers continue to weather these roads to glance at markers they had pinpointed on their map. Read below to discover my detailed guide to the Road to Hana, recounting the worthwhile stops on the route so you can avoid wasting daylight during this time-sensitive journey.
Is the Road to Hana Worth It?
Firstly, given the stark time commitment required for this attraction, many tourists wonder if the Road to Hana actually lives up to the hype it receives or if it will turn out to be an underwhelming waste of time. In my ongoing effort to be candid about my travels, I’ll give you my honest answer to this question. The Road to Hana has inspired many to preach about the grand flowing waters they encountered and the abundance of natural wonders unable to be found elsewhere. However, with such high expectations, there is sure to be a letdown that follows. This day-long excursion is the only path to step foot on the island’s famous black sand beach, as well as leading to the grand finale of Pipiwai Trail and Waimoku Falls. These three highlights were my main incentive for wanting to get up at the crack of dawn. In all honesty, the majority of the Road to Hana left much to the imagination, as many of the waterfalls we passed were only able to be viewed by a quick drive-by where we had little time to snap photos and take in the view before pulling forward for the car behind us to take our place. There are some other unique stops along the way, but I wasn’t awestruck by each one, as was what seemed to be the general consensus among other tourists we had met a few nights prior.
If you plan to see the black sand beach or hike the Pipiwai Trail, however, the Road to Hana is the best route for doing so. With the knowledge that I have now, I would recommend it to first-timers but wouldn’t personally repeat it if I were to travel to Maui again. I’ve listed my personal recommendations of where to stop on the Road to Hana later on in this blog so that you can save time for the most impressive views and avoid a long-winded journey back in the darkness.
Bonus Tip: Having a rental car will allow you to explore the Road to Hana at your own pace, rather than feeling rushed by a hop-on-hop-off tour. Start your search for a car rental below!
Which Road to Hana App Is the Best?
Consider this your first warning: You will not have service throughout the majority of the Road to Hana. These back roads offer little cell service until you reach the main town of Hana. Rather than blindly embarking on roads that you are unfamiliar with that require a hop-on-hop-off sort of itinerary, it is recommended that you download an app dedicated to guiding you through this excursion. As soon as you hop off your plane in Maui, you’ll see signs advertising the Shaka Guide, an app offering self-guided audio tours specializing in the Road to Hana. I first thought that if I did enough research, I’d be able to guide us through the Road to Hana just fine. But after hearing everyone’s suggestions and affirmations of the app, I decided to download its $15 “Classic” Road to Hana Tour.
By downloading this guide to the Road to Hana, we were able to have a personalized tour that tracked our car’s location on the map, signaling when the recording should begin speaking to us again. This worked regardless of whether we had service and filled our otherwise silent car with interesting commentary, Hawaiian tunes, and aloha spirit. While I didn’t do much research into any other apps for the Road to Hana, Shaka Guide is recognized as one of the best, and I can affirm its reliability and ability to entertain.
How to Do the Road to Hana in One Day
Given all the stops associated with the Road to Hana, many individuals debate whether or not they can do it in one day. For tourists wanting to take their time with it and visit each stop along the way, they might decide to split it into two days, spending a night in the small town of Hana. However, my travel partners and I only had a few days in Maui and wanted to hit up every spot on our bucket list. In our efforts to do so in the daylight, we rose from bed around 5 am to begin primping ourselves for the day, leaving our hotel somewhere between 6 to 6:30 am.
The initial drive took a bit of time until we reached the official start of the Road to Hana, prompting our self-guided tour to begin. Having visited in October, we had a bit less daylight to work with than the summer tourists, pushing us to commence our day at the crack of dawn and time out our drive approximately. Even with skipping some stops and grabbing quick bites to eat, we still didn’t begin our journey back to our hotel until after 5 pm, meaning that we had to endure the majority of our nearly three-hour drive back in the dark behind a trail of slow tourists just like us. If you’ve done your math correctly, you’ve probably deduced that our journey lasted us well over 12 hours. Although most of our journey was spent driving, we did venture into the Pipiwai Trail, a two-hour roundtrip hike leading to a 400-foot tall waterfall. While this trail did dig into our time, we couldn’t have left Maui without crossing this off our bucket list. More details to follow below regarding the climax of the Road to Hana.
If you plan on doing the Road to Hana in one full day, you’ll need to begin early to maximize your time in the daylight. It is definitely doable if you prioritize certain stops over others. If you choose to skip out on the four-mile hike, you’ll have a lot more daylight to play around with. Make a list of your must-see hotspots prior to leaving your hotel in order to avoid missing out on certain aspects.
When to Start the Road to Hana
From personal experience, it is recommended that you start the Road to Hana as early as possible. Wake up before the crack of dawn. Haul yourself and your crew into your rental car before the sun even rises. While shops and eateries may not be open by this time, it is best to get a move on with your day, especially to get a head start in front of the countless tourists choosing to do this excursion the same day as you. While we left around 6-6:30 am, I would recommend even leaving around 5:30 am if you have the stamina to do so.
What to Do on the Road to Hana
Upon downloading a self-guided tour of the Road to Hana or researching the area, you might be surprised by the number of pinpoints. The popular route offers sights of various waterfalls and other paid attractions, such as the Garden of Eden. Attempting to hit every stop will make you very rushed for time and might even lead to you missing out on the highlights reached at the end. Rather than disembarking from your car for every marker, some of which lean on the side of underwhelming, I recommend aiming for the stops listed below, hitting additional stops on your way back if time allows, and getting drive-by views of unapproachable waterfalls.
Paia Town
Paia Town is a small hub in Northern Maui with a string of restaurants and shops. You’ll approach this stop pretty early on in your drive, and many of the shops may not open until 11 am or later. My travel partners and I already planned our itinerary to visit Paia Town on a separate day in order to fully absorb its laidback vibes, peruse through sustainable shops and grab brunch. If you do choose to stop here, SURFCLUB Tacos is a popular open-concept restaurant standing at the town’s entrance, crafting coffee and açai bowls by morning and cooking up Mexican fare by afternoon. However, I’ll repeat it one more time for emphasis: Return to Paia Town another day to soak up its shops without feeling rushed.
Twin Falls
Approximately 25 minutes after emerging from Paia Town, you’ll come across the first pull-off for the acclaimed Twin Falls. This trail off the side of the road leads to a small swimming gulch stemming from an endless flow of water. Visitors often enjoy indulging in some of the fresh produce and smoothies. Due to the monetization and regulation of the Road to Hana, we were surprised to find parking officials charging $10 to leave our cars in the lot next to the hike. Although I had been excited to hike here, we decided to honor our budget. Thinking back, it probably would have been much too early in the day to get soaking wet anyway. If you don’t mind spending the cash for parking, Twin Falls is still a worthwhile stop on the Road to Hana, but be prepared to fork over an hour or so of your time to this activity. As for my carload, we decided to drive past this highlight to the next stop.
Aunt Sandy’s Banana Bread & Ke’anae Peninsula
Almost as famous as the Road to Hana itself is the globally recognized banana bread baked fresh every morning. As you navigate down the main road, hang a left towards the Ke’anae Peninsula, an oceanfront point with thunderous crashing waves. On your way to the tip of the peninsula, keep an eye out for Aunt Sandy’s Banana Bread, a food stand usually bearing a long line of hungry customers. Purchase a freshly baked loaf to enjoy once you reach the peninsula, and save some for the long car ride ahead. After hitting up these spots, take the same paved path back to the main road to continue your journey.
Lava Tube Cave
As was pointed out by the downloaded Shaka Guide for the Road to Hana, the Lava Tube Cave is a unique spot easily missable by the average tourist. This hidden entrance is found among one of the many sharp uphill curves and is accessible by entering into a dark muddy opening. Watch out for cars as you cross from the parking lookout area to the opening. Given the muddy conditions and my tiny bit of claustrophobia, we opted not to climb inside. However, just a few steps to our right, we saw a couple appear from behind the guardrail. They told us we could approach the Lava Tube Cave an alternate way by following the path they had just emerged from. Climbing up a small and somewhat slippery path, we quickly approached an enlarged gap showing the opposite side of the cave. I recommend this substitute route for those who grow panicky around dark, enclosed spaces.
Nahiku Marketplace
Along your route, you’ll come across Nahiku Marketplace on your left. This row of shops and food stalls makes for a pleasurable pitstop. Stock up on a few novelty souvenirs and maybe even indulge in some typical Hawaiian barbecue. However, the best is yet to come in regards to food on the Road to Hana, with a local hotspot coming up later on this list.
Wai’anapanapa Black Sand Beach
One of the highlights I was most excited to experience in person was the Wai’anapanapa Black Sand Beach, which gets its color from lava flow aging several hundred years back. Descend from a path of meandering stairs and step foot onto this volcanic residue. Waves can be violent here, which has warded off tourists from swimming in the rough waters. Play it safe and instead dig your toes into the historic black sand, duck your head as you enter a small cave on your right, and trek through an upward trail on your lefthand side leading to rugged cliffs.
Visiting Wai’anapanapa Black Sand Beach on the Road to Hana requires some careful planning, as the Wai’anapanapa State Park calls for a strictly enforced timed entry as of April 2021. Reservations can be made up to 14 days in advance but must be obtained and printed prior to entering the park. Expect to pay $10 for your vehicle and an additional $5 per person. When purchasing your reservation, you’ll be asked to choose between four different time slots, although it can be difficult to predict the exact time you’ll reach the entrance. I originally reserved the 12:30 pm to 3 pm slot, as I didn’t want to risk arriving late and missing our chance to see this marvel. However, given our early departure and the fact that we skipped Twin Falls, we arrived at the entrance a full hour before our entry, where the park rangers turned us away until our reservation was valid. Given this slight complication, we opted to visit our chosen lunch spot and return when our passes were effective. Had I known the timing we would make, I would have booked the 10 am to 12:30 pm arrival time, and I recommend this if you plan on following the exact Road to Hana itinerary as us. But if you choose to hike to Twin Falls or make additional stops prior to the black sand beach, then I would still recommend the later reservation.
Hana Town
The town that inspired the name of this tourist attraction, Hana, consists of select shops, restaurants, hotels for weary travelers, and a close-knit local community of neighbors. We didn’t spend much time exploring this area, but it is the main destination for many travelers. However, we had lunch on our brains and the grand finale to look forward to, leaving us little time to warrant for this small locality.
Huli Huli Chicken
As is mentioned in my detailed guide to eating on a budget in Maui, Huli Huli Chicken is an unbeatable eatery selling one of the region’s most famous dishes straight off the kiawe wood grill. While the restaurant may not look like much at first, as food is ordered and served under a tented pavilion, you’ll come to find that luxury food does not always take form in a concrete building but that it can be derived from a team of passionate locals using generational recipes and centrally-sourced ingredients. An order of the huli huli chicken can easily be split between two individuals, enjoyed at the adjacent lounge chairs and tables facing Alau Island, a rocky formation spearing out of the water containing a haphazard collection of palm trees rumored to have been planted to commemorate a grieving father’s sons who lost their lives serving in World War I. This food detour off of Haneoo Road is best savored with the company of your travel partners and the Hawaiian ambiance this neck of the woods provides.
Pipiwai Trail & Waimoku Falls
Between dodging potholes and nursing your newly full stomach, you’ll soon happen upon the entrance to Haleakalā National Park, located on the outskirts of the Road to Hana. If in the past three days you purchased entrance into the park, you’ll be able to use that same pass to enter the parking lot for the Pipiwai Trail. Otherwise, you can pay the $30 vehicle entry fee at this time. This four-mile roundtrip trail generally takes between two and two-and-a-half hours to complete, but you’ll hardly notice how much time has passed as you walk through this incomparable trail. Watch your step as you tramp uphill over slippery rocks, feel like a child as you gaze at the large banyan tree’s branches stemming from the trunk like lightning strikes, and be transported to a different land as you walk on wooden planks situated between a mile-long stretch of sky-scraping bamboo.
Pro Tip: Use your park entrance within three days to avoid paying again when you visit Haleakalā National Park for sunset or sunrise!
After hiking in between pillars of bamboo for a mile, your feet may begin tempting you to turn back, but pay no mind to their cries. Instead, keep on trekking towards the hike’s grand epilogue: a 400-foot waterfall bearing the name Waimoku Falls. If you have any familiarity with the 1989 film Honey, I Shrunk the Kids, you might feel a strange resemblance to the children’s newfound microscopic presence, as the surrounding nature will suddenly multiply in size and envelop you in its beauty. Even the most talented photographers struggle to capture the sheer grandeur of this view. If you must apply the overused phrase “pictures don’t do it justice” to one sight, let it be this one.
The sight of Waimoku Falls will indicate that you’ve reached the end of the trail, where you must then turn back, the bamboo awaiting you once more. Given that the national park closes at 5 pm, it is recommended that you time your day out to arrive no later than 3 pm if you plan to hike the entire Pipiwai Trail. There are public bathrooms located between the parking lot and trailhead that visitors should take advantage of prior to beginning their reverse drive on the Road to Hana, especially as some of the limited public restroom facilities along the road might be closed by the time you reach them.
Try to give yourself enough time to avoid driving back to your hotel in total darkness. However, if this is the case, simply switch your headlights on, take it easy around the sharp turns, and pull over for the locals to pass you. Enjoy the ongoing commentary, tunes, and entertainment playing through your car’s speakers, courtesy of the Shaka Guide. As you approach the starting point of the Road to Hana once more, possibly 12 hours since having begun the journey, you’ll grow anxious to return to your hotel bed, perhaps with take-out food in hand. With the day behind you, you can now say that you stood on a black sand beach, walked through a bamboo forest, and witnessed a 400-foot waterfall all in the same day!
Do you have any acquaintances heading to Maui any time soon? Share this post with them to guide them through planning their one-day Road to Hana itinerary! Lastly, navigate over to my ultimate guide to Maui for first-timers to learn what else there is to do on the island.